I also read, as part of extensive research, the strategy of Poznan - a city of know-how. I have always praised it when asked about it in the media or at conferences, judging it from a rather superficial acquaintance. It's time to take a closer look at this study: when I get to the sentence "Poznań is the most important Polish city after Warsaw," a red light goes on. "Aha, it smelled of some complexes". - I thought, at the same time imagining the reaction to such a worded description of the city read in Gdansk, Wroclaw or Krakow. "I'm sorry, Poznań, but you are not the second most important Polish city. Currently you're not even on the box, because for various reasons the number one is the capital, and it's Wrocław with the Tricity and Krakow that are fiercely fighting for numbers 2 and 3." I don't know if the people in Poznan will be offended at me for these thoughts, but I'm trying to be honest and some knowledge of all these metropolises I have nonetheless.
Poznań was historically the second most important Polish city twice - during the reign of Mieszko I and during the reign of the Jagiellons, but even this is on the condition that we do not take into account Wrocław and Gdańsk, which fell slightly outside the Polish orbit. Today such a statement sounds arrogant, well, unless we treat it as an expression of certain aspirations. And in aspirations it is worthwhile to set ambitious goals - as long as one does not overshoot the strategy. However, I perceive such a push for second place more as an expression of certain complexes, which came to me when I was walking through Poznań's Old Town - if you look from the right angle, you will see additional gables above the upper floors of many tenement houses, added for visual effect, behind which there are no rooms. Thanks to them, some Poznań tenements pretend to be taller, trying to grow, to catch up with the tenements of Gdańsk, Wrocław and Cracow, which are one or two stories taller. Historical architecture says a lot about reality, if you read it right, I read it - without malice - but just this way. We will come back to history, now let's move on to getting to know modern Poznan.
The heart of the city is becoming aesthetically pleasing and fresh
photo: Marta Przewoźna
Not only do I generally have an image of the city as above, but I unluckily find myself in Poznań in December, in the worst shades of Polish winter gray. Looking at my preconceptions, associations, unfavorable time of year and the dramatic-looking city center under renovation, one could risk the thesis that I won't read this city in the right way, won't discover it properly, won't like it, that there's no chance for that in such conditions. And yet.
I'm rediscovering the city the way I wanted to. I manage to catch some good feeling. I also manage to get rid of prejudices or habits from my youth that flatten my perception of Poznań. I enter, cycling into this Poznań with an open head, a positive attitude and with a large allowance taken for unfavorable conditions. So as I ride through the defunct KontenerART, across the deserted Malta River around a surprisingly large lake, I imagine how beautiful it will be here in season.
KontenerART - art on the streets it is!
Photo: Tomasz Kusiak
I am not discouraged by the ubiquitous construction site - I know how beautiful Poznan's Old Town is. The only thing that raises my eyebrow is the Arsenal pavilion, in fact I don't understand why not tear it down and put up something with architectural class, with a striking concept open to dialogue with the historic buildings around.
I like the historic center of Poznań for several things. First - for the ubiquitous commemorative plaques. I find them at every turn and enjoy reading them. They tell of a Poznan that was patriotic, tenaciously Polish, consistently Germanized, and steadfast. This is Poznań of victorious uprisings, victorious because they are more pragmatic, measuring intentions against strength, less driven by romantic impulses, and simply more sensibly planned.
I have a fairly simple recipe for this Poznań: I have a list of recommended places checked by friends. These are the best breakfast bars, cafes and restaurants in Poznań. What I used to miss most in this city. So - it is good. In this respect, Poznań has matured magnificently. Lavenda in the Old Town, UNO in Jeżyce, BankCook on Święty Marcin Street - great food, cool interiors, super service. There are plenty of these pubs, enough. Phew.
